Superwash and mulesing-free: what do they mean and why do they matter?

Superwash and mulesing-free are two terms you encounter more and more often when consciously choosing wool. But what exactly do they mean—and why are they so important to understand?

What is superwash wool?

Superwash is wool that has undergone a chemical treatment so that the fibers are less likely to shrink and felt. During this process, the natural scales on the wool fiber are smoothed or removed, often with a chlorine treatment, and sometimes a protective coating is added.

This makes the wool easier to wash, but also changes the natural structure of the fiber. Some of the typical properties of wool may therefore diminish: thermoregulation, self-cleaning, and breathability are all properties that partly depend on the untreated fiber structure.

What is mulesing and why is it a problem?

Mulesing is a procedure mainly applied to Merino sheep to prevent flystrike. In flystrike, flies lay eggs in the moist skin folds around the sheep's rear, after which the larvae damage the skin with severe consequences for the animal.

To prevent this, mulesing involves removing a piece of skin around the tail, creating smoother, barer skin. Because this is seen as an invasive and painful procedure in which lambs are tied down and the procedure often takes place without anesthesia, more and more brands are opting for mulesing-free wool: wool from sheep where this treatment is not applied.

What did Keuringsdienst van Waarde discover?

In November 2025, the popular consumer program Keuringsdienst van Waarde dedicated an entire broadcast to merino wool and the 'mulesing-free' claim. The findings were striking.

The shocking conclusion: at least 80% of all merino wool comes from sheep that have undergone mulesing. Only 20% of all merino wool is actually mulesing-free—remarkably low, given the large number of brands that claim to officially produce mulesing-free.

The broadcast also showed why the problem is so persistent. Through selective breeding of Merino sheep, the animal's skin is often heavily folded. "The more folds, the more wool you have," explains wool expert Betty Stikkers. But these skin folds also pose health risks for the animal.

In Australia, where about 80 percent of all merino wool comes from, the lucilia cuprina fly poses a threat to both sheep and sheep farmers.

For mulesing-free wool, there is an alternative, but it requires more effort. The sheep needs to be shorn much more often to prevent infections. "And if you keep 15,000 sheep, it's almost impossible to check all their rear ends," says a sheep shearer.

The Keuringsdienst also investigated whether clothing brands can properly substantiate the 'mulesing-free' claim and whether manufacturers themselves understand what the term entails. A wake-up call for consumers and the industry.

Why do we choose non-superwash and mulesing-free?

Our wool brands Hvid and Kico Label are both carefully selected based on this: both work exclusively with mulesing-free and non-superwash wool. This ensures that the natural structure of the fiber is fully preserved.

This ensures that the wool retains its best properties: soft, breathable, warm, and self-cleaning, exactly as wool is naturally intended to be.

If you shop consciously, you now know what to look for. Check the label, ask your supplier questions, and choose wool that is good for both you and the animal.